Differences between revisions 140 and 151 (spanning 11 versions)
Revision 140 as of 2012-02-27 22:19:02
Size: 15111
Editor: SteveKillen
Comment: Steve still uses the swamp cooling technique
Revision 151 as of 2012-03-22 20:12:09
Size: 16701
Editor: SteveKillen
Comment: Pipeline update
Deletions are marked like this. Additions are marked like this.
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 * 2012-01-08: SteveKillen's Stovetop Special Bitter
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 * 2012-03-07: ClintonEbadi's Brown Town (Brown Ale)
 * 2012-03-07: ClintonEbadi's Cernunnos (Am. Wheat Ale with Ginger and Chamomile)
 * 2012-03-07: RachelBrown's Ancient Orange Mead
 * 2012-03-22: SteveKillen's Bleeding Heart Hefeweizen
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 * 7.5 gal carboy: ClintonEbadi's Cider Recipe #5 (2011-11-26)
 * Better Bottle #1: ClintonEbadi's Downtown Brown Ale (2012-02-15)
 * Better Bottle #2: ClintonEbadi's Cernnunos American Wheat Ale (2012-02-18)
 * 7.5 gal carboy: ClintonEbadi's Blackberry-Hibiscus Cyser (2012-03-18)
 * Better Bottle #1: BtTempleton's French Revolution Ale (2012-03-11)
 * Better Bottle #2: RachelBrown's Luna Moth (2012-03-17)
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 * Small Better Bottle: nil
 * 5 gal carboy: nil
 * 1 gal jug #1: RachelBrown's Ancient Orange Mead (2011-11-13)
 * Small Better Bottle: SteveKillen's Stovetop Dunkelweizen (2012-03-22)
 * 5 gal carboy: ClintonEbadi's Cider Recipe #5 (2011-11-26)
 * 1 gal jug #1: KristenPeavler's Lavender Rose mead (2012-03-17)
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 * 1 gal jug #3: nil
 * 1 gal jug #4: nil
 * 1 gal jug #5: nil
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 * Sebastian?
 * BtTempleton's [[/Recipes#FrenchRevolution|French Revolution Ale]]
 * BtTempleton?
 * Sebastian [[Granito/NewBelgiumAmberAle|New Belgium Amber Ale]]
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== Required Reading ==

Read [[http://howtobrew.com|How to Brew]]. Do not continue, do not pass Go until you've at least made it through [[http://howtobrew.com/section1/chapter1.html|Chapter One]].

== Styles/Ingredients ==

 * [[http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/catdex.php|2008 BJCP Style Guide]]
 * [[attachment:hopunion-variety-databook.pdf|Hopunion Variety Databook]] has tons of useful info on different hop varieties<<FootNote(From http://hopunion.com/hopeducation.html)>>
 * [[http://www.realbeer.com/hops/FAQ.html|The Hop FAQ]], revised by Gary Tinseth himself. Hop wizardry inside!
 * [[http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/ingredient-guides-redux-107308/|Homebrewtalk Ingredient Guide]]
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 * [[http://howtobrew.com|How to Brew]]. Sections one and two should be read before attempting to brew as we are skipping straight to using specialty grains (the extra effort is trivial).
 * [[http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/catdex.php|2008 BJCP Style Guide]]
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  * A useful guide to [[http://www.mrmalty.com/late_hopping.php|late-hopping/hopbursting]]
 * [[attachment:hopunion-variety-databook.pdf|Hopunion Variety Databook]] has tons of useful info on different hop varieties<<FootNote(From http://hopunion.com/hopeducation.html)>>
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 * [[http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/ingredient-guides-redux-107308/|Homebrewtalk Ingredient Guide]]
  * A thread on HomebrewTalk about [[http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/easy-partial-mash-brewing-pics-75231/|Stovetop All-grain batches]]
 * A guide to [[http://www.homebrewzone.com/off-flavors.htm|off flavors in beer]]

== Technique ==

 * A useful guide to [[http://www.mrmalty.com/late_hopping.php|late-hopping/hopbursting]]
 * A thread on HomebrewTalk about [[http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/easy-partial-mash-brewing-pics-75231/|Stovetop All-grain batches]]
 * A [[http://www.brewsupplies.com/hop_characteristics.htm|handy chart]] to help you determine your Hop Schedule courtesy of http://www.brewsupplies.com/

== Software ==

 * [[http://brewtarget.sourceforge.net/|Brewtarget]] A newer Free Software brewing tool. Looks similar to QBrew, but apparantly shares no code, and appears to be actively maintained.
 * [[http://www.usermode.org/code.html|QBrew]] recipe formulation tool and batch log. Available in Debian, and indispensable for the Free Software loving brewer. Lacking a few features compared to proprietary offerings, but bpt and ClintonEbadi are programmers... We don't use it anymore, but [[QBrew]] could be improved if one felt like it.
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 * A [[http://www.brewsupplies.com/hop_characteristics.htm|handy chart]] to help you determine your Hop Schedule courtesy of http://www.brewsupplies.com/
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 * A guide to [[http://www.homebrewzone.com/off-flavors.htm|off flavors in beer]]

== Software ==

 * [[http://www.usermode.org/code.html|QBrew]] recipe formulation tool and batch log. Available in Debian, and indispensable for the Free Software loving brewer. Lacking a few features compared to proprietary offerings, but bpt and ClintonEbadi are programmers... We don't use it anymore, but [[QBrew]] could be improved if one felt like it.
 * [[http://brewtarget.sourceforge.net/|Brewtarget]] A newer Free Software brewing tool. Looks similar to QBrew, but apparantly shares no code, and appears to be actively maintained.

== Wine/Mead/Cider ==

 * [[http://web2.airmail.net/sgross/fermcalc/fermcalc_links.html|Wine Links]] (has a lot of good stuff!)
 * [[http://hbd.org/brewery/library/beeslees.html|The Bee's Lees]], a Collection of Mead Recipes
 * [[http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/|Jack Keller's Wine Page]]
 * [[http://www.winebook.webs.com/|The Home Winemaker's Manual]]. Not sure how popular, but looks to be the closest to How to Brew in terms of presentation of the process.
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The water ion nomograph is pulled from Palmer's [[http://howtobrew.com/section3/chapter15-3.html|How To Brew]]. Looks like our water profile in Raleigh is good for pale, bitter beers; it's got a sulfate:chloride ratio of 3:1. To make darker, maltier beers, some additions will be required. SteveKillen estimates that for our 8ish-gallon water volume, a total of 3.6g chalk, 3.6g baking soda, and 4g of non-iodized salt will provide a better water profile for malty beers like the Bubonic Porter.<<FootNote(Additions calculated using http://www.brewersfriend.com/water-chemistry/ which rounds to the nearest number... not so scientific, but good enough for our uses)>> Further tweaking may be required, but a good goal is to test several styles of beer and come up with a handful of good generic numbers. The water ion nomograph is pulled from Palmer's [[http://howtobrew.com/section3/chapter15-3.html|How To Brew]]. Looks like our water profile in Raleigh is good for pale, bitter beers; it's got a sulfate:chloride ratio of 3:1 (maybe -- it also has very little of either). To make darker, maltier beers, some additions will be required. SteveKillen estimates that for our 8ish-gallon water volume, a total of 3.6g chalk, 3.6g baking soda, and 4g of non-iodized salt will provide a better water profile for malty beers like the Bubonic Porter.<<FootNote(Additions calculated using http://www.brewersfriend.com/water-chemistry/ which rounds to the nearest number... not so scientific, but good enough for our uses)>> Further tweaking may be required, but a good goal is to test several styles of beer and come up with a handful of good generic numbers.
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 * [[http://hbd.org/cascade/dennybrew/|Cheap and Easy Batch Sparging]] Much simpler Mash tun design than one designed for fly sparging (and it can be converted to a fancier tun later if needed)
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 * '''[[http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_792_792|Northern Tool Submersible Pump]]''' For circulating ice water through the immersion chiller in an attempt to save water. Cost about the same as the pond pump that didn't work, but a quick test was promising--the flow rate through the wort chiller looked as high as with the garden faucet. As of 2011-06-09 we have successfully cooled around 7 brews with the pump and it has yet to break--we can cool a five gallon batch to 74F in ~15 minutes using only 20 gallons of water and eight frozen 2L soda bottles. If it doesn't break in six more months I think I can recommend it.  * '''[[http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_792_792|Northern Tool Submersible Pump]]''' For circulating ice water through the immersion chiller in an attempt to save water. Cost about the same as the pond pump that didn't work, but a quick test was promising--the flow rate through the wort chiller looked as high as with the garden faucet. As of 2011-06-09 we have successfully cooled around 7 brews with the pump and it has yet to break--we can cool a five gallon batch to 74F in ~15 minutes using only 20 gallons of water and eight frozen 2L soda bottles. --(If it doesn't break in six more months)--it's 2012-03-20 and the pump has survived a '''lot''' of batches so I think I can recommend it.
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 * 2 '''1 Gallon Glass Jug''' for minibatches or starters  * 5 '''1 Gallon Glass Jug''' for minibatches or starters
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 * '''10' 5/16" ID Siphon Hosing'''
   * Split with a venturi tube gadget for wort aeration
 * '''Faucet hose adapter'''. Because it's getting cold and outdoor faucets need to be turned off soon.
 * Venturi tube gadget for wort aeration
 * '''Faucet hose adapter'''. Easily acquired and infinitely useful -- the one we found has hose threads and a second set of smaller threads for an internally-threaded aerator. Really useful for filling buckets, using a jet bottle washer, getting a faster water flow for filling things (pasta pots, watering cans, ...).
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 * '''Bottlecaps''' about 24oz (6-7 batches worth), brightly colored (5/1/11)
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 * '''Floating Thermometer'''  * '''Floating Thermometer''' Warning: slow to read, not particularly accurate... mostly used to stir rehydrated yeast slurry now
 * '''12" SS Dial Thermometer''' Reasonably accurate, reads fast, can get deep into the mash
 * '''Pocket Kitchen Therometer''' Reasonable accurate, reads fast, handy for checking gravity sample temperatures
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== Expendables ==

That you can't [[/Ingredients|eat]] at least.

 * '''5/16" ID Siphon Hosing'''
 * '''Bottlecaps''' about 24oz (6-7 batches worth), brightly colored (5/1/11)
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 * Larger kettle (10 gallon batches, kthx)
 * Larger mash tun (all grain for batches about 1.055 kthx)

Making Beer

What's Brewing

Recently Bottled

Fermenting

  • 7.5 gal carboy: ClintonEbadi's Blackberry-Hibiscus Cyser (2012-03-18)

  • Better Bottle #1: BtTempleton's French Revolution Ale (2012-03-11)

  • Better Bottle #2: RachelBrown's Luna Moth (2012-03-17)

  • Better Bottle #3: nil
  • Small Better Bottle: SteveKillen's Stovetop Dunkelweizen (2012-03-22)

  • 5 gal carboy: ClintonEbadi's Cider Recipe #5 (2011-11-26)

  • 1 gal jug #1: KristenPeavler's Lavender Rose mead (2012-03-17)

  • 1 gal jug #2: nil
  • 1 gal jug #3: nil
  • 1 gal jug #4: nil
  • 1 gal jug #5: nil
  • Extraction Jar: Fenugreek/Vodka extraction (2011-12-15)

Planning

Competing

Piedmont Brewer's Cup, 2011-10-22

Useful Information

Required Reading

Read How to Brew. Do not continue, do not pass Go until you've at least made it through Chapter One.

Styles/Ingredients

General Brewing

Technique

Software

  • Brewtarget A newer Free Software brewing tool. Looks similar to QBrew, but apparantly shares no code, and appears to be actively maintained.

  • QBrew recipe formulation tool and batch log. Available in Debian, and indispensable for the Free Software loving brewer. Lacking a few features compared to proprietary offerings, but bpt and ClintonEbadi are programmers... We don't use it anymore, but QBrew could be improved if one felt like it.

  • Carbonation Calculator

  • ABV Calculator

Wine/Mead/Cider

Location Specific

Water

Cary and Raleigh use chloramines rather than chlorine for water purification. The homebrew shop was helpful and warned that this does not evolve out as gas during boiling like chlorine does, and results in band-aid like flavors in the final beer. To counteract this a quarter of a Campden tablet must be added for each five gallons of water used. This will react with the chloramines and cause them to evolve out as sulfur and chlorine gases within approximately fifteen minutes. The water may then be boiled as usual.

For extract brewing water adjustment is not essential, but water in the Raleigh region is soft enough that there will be issues with hop bitterness not being properly attenuated. The LHBS provided Water Crystals (8:1 CaSO4:MgSO4) with a recommended rate of one or two tsp per five gallons. A teaspoon has a mass of 4g (3.55...g:0.44...g).

Another thing to be wary of is steeping roasted grains in soft water:

  • Water chemistry also plays a role in tannin extraction. Steeping the heavily roasted malts in very soft water will produce conditions that are too acidic and harsh flavors will result. Likewise, steeping the lightest crystal malts in hard water could produce conditions that are too alkaline and tannin extraction would be a problem again. In this case, the terms Hard and Soft Water are being used to indicate a high (>200 ppm) or low(<50 ppm) level of carbonates and the degree of alkalinity of the brewing water.2

Raleigh

Important Water Ion Levels for Raleigh NC Water (mg/L)3

Date

Ca+2

Mg+2

SO4-2

Na+

Cl-

HCO3-

2010

6.49

1.90

52

30.5

12.9

34.28 4

Jan 2012

8.5

4.0

47

34

15.9

43.55 4

palmerwaterionchart-raleigh2010.png

The water ion nomograph is pulled from Palmer's How To Brew. Looks like our water profile in Raleigh is good for pale, bitter beers; it's got a sulfate:chloride ratio of 3:1 (maybe -- it also has very little of either). To make darker, maltier beers, some additions will be required. SteveKillen estimates that for our 8ish-gallon water volume, a total of 3.6g chalk, 3.6g baking soda, and 4g of non-iodized salt will provide a better water profile for malty beers like the Bubonic Porter.3 Further tweaking may be required, but a good goal is to test several styles of beer and come up with a handful of good generic numbers.

Cary

Important Water Ion Levels for Cary NC Water (mg/L)3

Ca+2

Mg+2

SO4-2

Na+

Cl-

HCO3-

9.60

2.90

38

32.1

21.3

50.4 4

With 2g of Water Crystals

25

4

78

32

21

50

With 4g of Water Crystals

41

5

119

32

21

50

With 8g of Water Crystals

72

6

201

32

21

50

Sulfate:Chloride ratio of raw water = (approximately) 1.2:1.0 which is not particularly good for anything. This should be closer to 2:1 for bitter ales, 1:3 for stouts and porters, and 1:2 for milder ales (e.g. Justin's Brown Ale). Some minor adjustment with NaCl will be needed; since extract is being used and the NaCl content is unknown a conservative approach is best. ClintonEbadi suspects aiming for a ratio of 2:1 for bitter beers, 1:2 for more malt dominated beers, and leaving it alone for the others is the best approach for now.

According to BeerSmith our Magnesium levels are insufficient for yeast nutrition, and the sulfate levels are too low for bitter beers (like ClintonEbadi's Pale Ale recipe).

Based upon this information it appears that a good approach will be to add 2g of Water Crystals to all batches with an appropriate amount of NaCl to balance the additional Sulfate.

Future Ideas

General Beer

Available Equipment

Most owned by ClintonEbadi; all available for shared use.

Wort Production

  • Bayou Classic KAB5 Low Pressure Propane Burner. 100,000 BTU/h super burner. MOAR POWER

  • 2 20lbs Propane Cylinders Just a basic propane cylinder

    • places to get propane refill: UHaul on Capital (north of 440), BJs on Old Wake Forest off Capital (south of 540)
  • 2'x2' Paving Stone to provide a stable surface for the burner and protection for deck wood against drying out or scorching

  • Polarware 30 quart stainless steel brew kettle. Basic, but workable for full five gallon wort boils. LHBS recommended the low end kettle and reserving funds for a future purchase of a fancy ten gallon kettle.

  • Immersion Wort Chiller. Just a basic coiled copper tubing gadget.

  • Northern Tool Submersible Pump For circulating ice water through the immersion chiller in an attempt to save water. Cost about the same as the pond pump that didn't work, but a quick test was promising--the flow rate through the wort chiller looked as high as with the garden faucet. As of 2011-06-09 we have successfully cooled around 7 brews with the pump and it has yet to break--we can cool a five gallon batch to 74F in ~15 minutes using only 20 gallons of water and eight frozen 2L soda bottles. If it doesn't break in six more monthsit's 2012-03-20 and the pump has survived a lot of batches so I think I can recommend it.

  • 48" Stirring Spoon That's what she said

Fermentation

  • Ranco Digital Temperature Controller for the fridge at Evergreen (Steve's)

  • 3 6 Gallon Better Bottles (2 Steve's, 1 Clinton's)

  • 3 Gallon Better Bottle for experimental batches (Steve's)

  • 7 Gallon Glass Carboy

  • 5 Gallon Glass Carboy for secondary fermentation

  • 5 Gallon Mash Lautering Tun for masochism and all-grain batches Parts list, total cost ~$40. Make sure to check out a better guide to the actual construction.

  • 5 1 Gallon Glass Jug for minibatches or starters

  • 2 64oz Glass Jug (Rogue Dead Guy Ale Jug) for starters

  • Airlock enough for all fermentors and one starter jug (with stoppers for the carboys)

Siphoning &c

  • Autosiphon Fancy and new with a smaller outer tube diameter

  • Venturi tube gadget for wort aeration
  • Faucet hose adapter. Easily acquired and infinitely useful -- the one we found has hose threads and a second set of smaller threads for an internally-threaded aerator. Really useful for filling buckets, using a jet bottle washer, getting a faster water flow for filling things (pasta pots, watering cans, ...).

  • Bucket Filler. Homemade hose end with siphon tubing attached to make filling five gallons of water a lot less of a pain in the ass.

Bottling

  • 6 gallon bottling bucket with a spigot

  • Bottling Cane with an auto shutoff and whatnot

  • Bottle Capper basic wing capper

  • Drying Rack Plywood board with removable legs and holes for drying bottles after sanitization

Science!

  • Hydrometer for taking gravity readings

  • Floating Thermometer Warning: slow to read, not particularly accurate... mostly used to stir rehydrated yeast slurry now

  • 12" SS Dial Thermometer Reasonably accurate, reads fast, can get deep into the mash

  • Pocket Kitchen Therometer Reasonable accurate, reads fast, handy for checking gravity sample temperatures

  • Cylinder not graduated, but with a 100mL (maybe--have to double check this) line marked. Used when taking gravity readings.

  • Wine Thief a small thief to take non-returnable samples for gravity readings

  • The Thief to take gravity readings in the fermenter!

Books

  • Beer Captured. A recipe book of 150 clone brews. Helpful as a basic guide for various styles.

  • Radical Brewing. A so far excellent source of ideas on weird (and not so weird) beer styles

&c

  • Sanitizer Bucket a.k.a five gallon plastic bucket from Home Despot

  • 6 Gallon Ale Pail retired as a collection bucket for wort runnings from the mash tun

Things That Don't Actually Work

  • Igloo Lunchbox Cooler The top being uninsulated turned out to be a serious problem: the cooler lost around 40⁰F within 30 minutes. It turns out, however, that a metal pot in the 170⁰F oven maintained around 160⁰F and did not get too hot after all.

  • Smartpond 155GPH Submersible Pump for circulating ice water through the wort chiller. Low flow rate (not surprising), and broke after two uses. Garbage.

Obsoleted By the Ever-Forward March of Progress

  • Cooling system A pair of plant water drainage trays, tshirts, and a box fan... not as nice as a basement, but it actually works pretty well. (New place had a fridge so we grabbed a controller instead. This is still a great low-tech solution though--still in use by SteveKillen).

Expendables

That you can't eat at least.

  • 5/16" ID Siphon Hosing

  • Bottlecaps about 24oz (6-7 batches worth), brightly colored (5/1/11)

NEEDED

More gadgets.

Like this one: Victoria Hand Mill, $30 after shipping. (out of stock)

Or this one: Another hand mill, $23.77 after shipping.

  • Larger kettle (10 gallon batches, kthx)
  • Larger mash tun (all grain for batches about 1.055 kthx)
  1. From http://hopunion.com/hopeducation.html (1)

  2. http://howtobrew.com/section2/chapter13-2.html (2)

  3. Additions calculated using http://www.brewersfriend.com/water-chemistry/ which rounds to the nearest number... not so scientific, but good enough for our uses (3 4 5)

  4. Extrapolated by multiplying CaCO3 level by 1.22 (6 7 8)

HomeBrewing (last edited 2014-04-11 13:56:20 by ClintonEbadi)