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| = Seed Propagation = Current status is: germinating for the first time. Anything related to keeping seedlings alive (light) is completely untested, but, assuming pieces of random advice from scattered forum postings across the Internet can be trusted, might even work. == Process == 0. Staring mixture: 1 part vermiculite, 1 part perlite, 1 part spaghum peat moss 0. Fill peat trays 1/2-3/4 full with mixture 0. Put 2-3ish seeds per pot to maximize chances of success (ClintonEbadi is perhaps a too-cautious person at times) 0. Cover to the recommended planting depth 0. Fill drainage tray with 3 quarts water (overfilled the first with a gallon, underfilled the second with two quarts, three seems to be enough to keep everything properly moist) 0. Insert and mark seedling trays with business cards (variety + planting date + # of seeds/cell + expected germination date) 0. Wrap the whole thing up in plastic wrap and wait == Equipment == * 7 drainage trays capable of holding 5x10 cell paper/peat starter cell pots (I'm going for easy transplantation here) (GT,,n,, = Germination Tray N, ST,,n,, = Seedling Tray N) * [[http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100010588/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053|Storage rack]] for seedlings and germination trays * [[http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100204114/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053|10inx5ft duct]] cut into 10-11" wide pieces as makeshift reflector hoods (hack! not sure if it's even worth it ...) * Lots of 5000K / 1500 lumen CFLs + extension cords + [[http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100170446/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053|pluggable light sockets]] (because I'm not confindent in my ability to wire things that have to be left on for 16 hours at a time without causing a fire) = 2 CFLs per tray, attached to a cheap square plug, ziptied to the copper wire supporting the reflector. == Seeds to Order == * [[http://www.seedsavers.org/Details.aspx?itemNo=1347|Yellow of Parma Onion]] -- storage * [[http://www.seedsavers.org/Details.aspx?itemNo=394|Borettana Yellow Onion]] -- kebabs and pickling * [[http://www.seedsavers.org/Details.aspx?itemNo=350|Fractal broccoli!]] * [[http://www.seedsavers.org/Details.aspx?itemNo=112%28OG%29|Parade Cucumber]] * [[http://www.seedsavers.org/Details.aspx?itemNo=1024|Lettuce mix]] * [[http://www.seedsavers.org/Details.aspx?itemNo=46%28OG%29|Swiss chard]] * [[http://www.seedsavers.org/Details.aspx?itemNo=607|Christmas Lima Bean]] * [[http://www.seedsavers.org/Details.aspx?itemNo=269|Anise]] * [[http://www.seedsavers.org/Details.aspx?itemNo=462|Cumin]] * [[http://www.seedsavers.org/Details.aspx?itemNo=1065|Spider Flower Mix]] * [[http://www.seedsavers.org/Details.aspx?itemNo=1289|Sunflowers]] * [[http://www.seedsavers.org/Details.aspx?itemNo=927|Melon, Early Hanover]] * [[http://www.seedsavers.org/Details.aspx?itemNo=40%28OG%29|Melon, Amish OG]] * [[http://www.seedsavers.org/Details.aspx?itemNo=645%28OG%29|Pepper, Aurora OG]] * Marigolds, peppermint, yarrow -- easier to purchase transplants and we have peppermint == Available Seed == === Not Germinated Yet === * German Chamomile (pending indoor germination) * Dill (pending indoor germination) * Yellow Summer Crookneck Squash * White Lisbon Bunching Onions * Longstanding Cilantro * Early Scarlet Globe Radish === Germinated === ==== Herbs ==== * "True" Lavender * Sweet Basil * Oriental Basil * Flat Leaf Parsley |
= Timeline = Add dates for getting spring garden stuff in (greens, radishes, bunching onions, etc.) * {x} Februrary 1st: Safe to plant garlic and bunching onions * {x} February 10th: need to be germinating anything like peppers growing from seed * {x} March 1st: cut off window for starting seeds * {o} April 1st-10th: Last frost date, in theory * {o} March/April: Overseed pitiful patch of grass near deck == Current Tasks == Delete as completed. * Dump container media into trash can * Keep tomato media separate? Might be an old wives tale but... blight sucks. * Clean up back yard perimeter * Prepare garden squares for garlic and onions * Test soil if possible (at least pH?), but add 2x suggested compost since they are heavy feeders. Needs to be done about a week before planting. Add media if the squares are looking low. * Buy seeds * Plant garlic * Mix up batch of container media * Mix up 3 gal batch of starter media (or: just use pro mix with maybe a bit of vermiculite + liquid fertilizer) = Log = Log of things that should be remembered, to avoid doing them again too soon or not soon enough. * 2014-01-13: Cleared dead plants from trellis and garden beds = Seed Propgation = See [[/SeedPropagation]] == Plants to Germinate == * Fancy pepper varieties * Onions == Things to Buy or Build == * Row covers (at least for trellis beds -- vine borers are evil) = Transplants = Given the effort required to germinate a lot of things, we'll probably have more success just acquiring transplants for most things. == Needed == * Peppers (4 cell pack of each, not growing all of them) * Habaneros * Thai ("Bird's Eye" or similar) * Poblano (Mulato Isleno) * Did really well in 2013 * Serrano * Red Bell Pepper (Karma) * Herbs * Basil (6xsweet italian) * Rosemary * Parsley (24+, seriously) * Mint * Juliette grape tomatoes * Extremely good producer, really disease resistant, and it tastes pretty good too. * Slicing tomato * Marigolds (center of garden bed, inside tomato bed) The All-Knowing Internet says chives and tarragon are good companion plants too. == Acquired == = Garden = == Pests == * Figure out how to deal with stinkbugs * http://www.epa.gov/pesticides/controlling/stinkbugs/ * http://njaes.rutgers.edu/stinkbug/pesticides.asp (looks like applying "Spectracide" around the deck might work) * Deer and birds were not a problem in 2013 == Construction == Several small raised beds due to limited areas that receive enough sunlight, root infested soil (well, living in a forest does have its disadvantages), crappy soil, large drip lines, etc. === Garden CUBE Trellis === Netting: [[http://www.amazon.com/Dalen-Gardeneer-30-Foot-Trellis-TP-30C/dp/B000BZ8FXS/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top|Dalen Gardeneer]], 60lbs breaking strength (looks pretty typical). Installed 2013, survived season and looks fine for next year (leaving it on the trellis because saving a few bucks every N years isn't worth the pain of removing and reinstalling it). See [[http://journal.unknownlamer.org/archives/tag/trellis|Clinton's weblog posts about the trellis]] for details on the construction process. After using the trellis for a season, update wiki or website with general design (don't want to add too much to the "I built a trellis that ended up collapsing but never wrote about that part" noise). ==== Materials ==== * 1/2" EMT Conduit for legs and low-weight supports * 1/2" Rigid Conduit for supports for things like squash and melons * 1" PVC (plumbing, schedule 40) Side outlet elbow junction * Various bushings to adapt pvc junction to 3/4" and 1/2" thread * 1/2" and 3/4" EMT Set Screw to threaded connectors ==== Building It ==== * Measure a square on the ground * Hammer in a piece of rebar in each corner * Put EMT over rebar, decide on a height, and cut all of them to be level. * Build the needed elbows * 1/2" threaded bushing for direct connection of rigid conduit * 1/2" threaded bushing to attach 1/2" EMT set screw connector * 3/4" threaded bushing to attach 3/4" EMT set screw connector, which is used to attach the cut end of the rigid pipe (unless you have a pipe threader, in which case why are you taking advice from amateurs). It's not a super-snug fit, but it seems close enough. * Measure, cut, install horizontal supports * 1/2" EMT seems fine for things like tomatoes; 20lbs of weight results in a bend that you can see if you're looking for it. Attach with two set screw connectors to elbows. * 1/2" rigid conduit doesn't bend before the pvc on the ends starts deforming so if the trellis can handle heavy things, it looks like this is the best bet for squash/melons. Attach one end to a 1/2" threaded pvc connector in one elbow, and use a 3/4" set screw adapter on the cut end. * Stake and tie down elbows * Keep the frame under slight tension so that it does not sway back and forth easily. == Soil == Raleigh will [[http://www.raleighnc.gov/services/content/SolidWaste/Articles/YWProductsForSale.html|sells compost and mulch at reasonable prices]]. Then we just need an equal amount of soil-less media. One truck load of compost was enough for two seasons. Strata: * 3" (overflowing top of bed) mulch * 10" 1:1:1 peat moss:vermiculite:perlite base media, mixed 1:1 with compost * 1" of mulch * tilled earth Main garden bed had a small amount of blood meal added with the bottom mulch dug in (blood meal to compensate for nitrogen loss as it composts). Also added recommended amount of bone meal to mixture about halfway down (since the plants will likely need it when their roots get about that deep). == Layout == Using Square Foot Gardening as guide for layout. * 5'x3' raised bed * '''2''' 5'x16" beds, around a 6' tall garden trellis cube made of electrical conduit (Five 10' boards) === Main Plot === First step: allocate each square roughly so that we can visualize the garden. Unspecific order (easier to perform plant location optimization after we know how many squares of each will be grown). Cell 3x5 is the one in the corner closest to the house / next door. ''planned, not yet planted'', normal text is planted. || || 1 || 2 || 3 || 4 || 5 || || 1 || ''garlic'' || chives (currently dormant) || ''bunching onions'' || ''bunching onions'' || parsley (3) || || 2 || parsley (4)|| ... || ''Marigolds (4)'' || ... || ... || || 3 || ... || ... || ... || ... || ''garlic'' || === Garden CUBE === Probably just live with only two beds, perhaps three. Bed are ~60" long internally, plots are spaced 15". Cucumbers can probably be spaced tighter because of low weight, SFG book says one every 6", so 5" should be fine. Cell 1 is furthest from house || || 1 || 2 || 3 || 4 || 5 || || 1 || .... || ''cucumber'' || ''cucumber'' || ''cucumber'' || ... || || 2 || ''Early Hanover Melon'' || ''Early Hanover Melon'' || ... || ... || The third side has a rubbermaid bin with three or four grape tomatoes. Grow some grape tomatoes and at least one vine of a slicing tomato. === Containers === ==== In Use ==== * Catnip (medium pot) * Rosemary (large pot) * Oregano (rubbermaid bin) ==== Available ==== * 3 Deep rubbermaid bins (suitable for 4 plants) * One is attached to the trellis * 9 12" pots (possibly ten, or eight, need to double check) * 1 Huge pot * 1 Large pot * 1 Five gallon bucket * 3 Shallow rubbermaid bins * 1 Recycling bin ==== Container Media ==== * 5 gal Pro-Mix BX * 1 gal screened compost * 2 cups Plant Tone (recommended amount for 1 cu ft, close enough) * 1/2 cup blood meal for initial fertilization * 1/4 cup bone meal for a bit of extra phosphorous ==== Ideas ==== * Do we want to grow onions in containers? * Can onions, garlic, or bunching onions be grown in containers with e.g. peppers? * Green onions everywhere would be nice. Concerns include resource competition. === In the yard somewhere === Possibly just mix a bunch of herb seeds together with a bit of sand, toss in a spot near the edge of the yard, and cover with a thin layer of topsoil. * Chamomile |
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==== Peppers ==== * Cayenne Pepper * Habanero Pepper * California Wonder Pepper * Sweet Banana Pepper == Currently Germinating == Organized by the tray they are in. Details on start dates &c coming once ClintonEbadi is unlazy enough to double check the labels on the germination trays. I seed everything in increments of ten cell peat pots. * nicht! GT,,0,, is allocated to Chamomile+Dill, GT,,1,, and GT,,2,, are unallocated == Seedlings == First waterings are noted here, but subsequent are not (I was under the impression that it'd have to be done less often than basically daily ...) * ST,,0,,: 2x Chicory, 3x California Wonder Bell Pepper * 2012-03-03: Chicory dried out during the day! Bottom watered 3 cups * 2012-03-03: Transplanted first tray of Bell Peppers with significant germination * 2012-03-03: Fertilized lightly * 2012-03-05: Last two Bell Peppers germinated (also fertilized when transferring) * 2012-03-07: Thinned Chicory * 2012-03-19: Thinned peppers (note: third pepper tray has really low germination rate, bummer) * Fertilized entire tray lightly * ST,,1,,: 2x Sweet Banana Pepper, 2x Orange Habanero, 1x Cayenne Pepper * 2012-03-03: Watered * 2012-03-03: Fertlized lightly * 2012-03-05: Watered * ST,,2,,: 3x Sweet Basil, 2x Oriental Basil * 2012-03-05: Watered * 2012-03-09: Thinned all basil * 2012-03-09: Fertilized lightly * ST,,3,,: 3x Parsley, 2x Lavender * 2012-03-05: Parsley has germinated! (way, way early)... in the windowsill since I'm out of lights = Garden = == Construction == Several small raised beds due to limited areas that receive enough sunlight, root infested soil (well, living in a forest does have its disadvantages), crappy soil, large drip lines, etc. Cedar or Pine? Cedar may last longer, but this is being used at most 2 seasons... depends on the cost. * [[http://www.homedepot.com/Lumber-Composites-Boards/h_d1/N-5yc1vZbqmcZ1z0ywvw/R-100008466/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053|1x12x10 pine board]] is $20 for 10', but if we want 4' beds that's an awkward length * [[http://www.homedepot.com/Lumber-Composites-Boards/h_d1/N-5yc1vZbqmcZ1z0ywwnZ1z0ywvw/R-100077293/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053|1x10x12 pine board]] is also $20 for 12' and would get us three sides of a 4'x4' frame per board == Soil == Soil: http://www.areamulchandsoils.com/mulch%20price%20page.htm ($20.50 per yard^^2^^) Might need gravel for drainage. == Layout == Pending raised bed plans... at first glance, Square Foot Gardening looks like a reasonable framework to sketch things out. We could make it square meter gardening, but the book recommends 4'x4' grids so we'd be losing some space, and wood in America comes in feet :( Available (to us at least) board sizes are either 1x10x12 or 1x12x10; we want the beds to be at least one foot so square beds are wasting not-to-useful-sized pieces of lumber. Maybe a non-square design: 6x3 feet? 5x3? Assuming use of 10' lumber ... 5x3 + 5x3 + 4x4 uses 5 pieces of lumber, with 6' of the last piece unused (throw in another 5x3 bed and piece of lumber to fix that ...). Or, 6x3 + 5x3 + 4x4 with no wasted lumber. {{drawing:garden-layout.adraw}} (doesn't work, Steve's wiki is too old) |
* Anise * Cumin * Lavender * Rosemary (good hedge for the front!) = History = * /GardenLog2012 * /GardenLog2013 ---- CategoryEvergreen |
Contents
Timeline
Add dates for getting spring garden stuff in (greens, radishes, bunching onions, etc.)
- {x} Februrary 1st: Safe to plant garlic and bunching onions
- {x} February 10th: need to be germinating anything like peppers growing from seed
- {x} March 1st: cut off window for starting seeds
April 1st-10th: Last frost date, in theory - March/April: Overseed pitiful patch of grass near deck
Current Tasks
Delete as completed.
- Dump container media into trash can
- Keep tomato media separate? Might be an old wives tale but... blight sucks.
- Clean up back yard perimeter
- Prepare garden squares for garlic and onions
- Test soil if possible (at least pH?), but add 2x suggested compost since they are heavy feeders. Needs to be done about a week before planting. Add media if the squares are looking low.
- Buy seeds
- Plant garlic
- Mix up batch of container media
- Mix up 3 gal batch of starter media (or: just use pro mix with maybe a bit of vermiculite + liquid fertilizer)
Log
Log of things that should be remembered, to avoid doing them again too soon or not soon enough.
- 2014-01-13: Cleared dead plants from trellis and garden beds
Seed Propgation
See /SeedPropagation
Plants to Germinate
- Fancy pepper varieties
- Onions
Things to Buy or Build
- Row covers (at least for trellis beds -- vine borers are evil)
Transplants
Given the effort required to germinate a lot of things, we'll probably have more success just acquiring transplants for most things.
Needed
- Peppers (4 cell pack of each, not growing all of them)
- Habaneros
- Thai ("Bird's Eye" or similar)
- Poblano (Mulato Isleno)
- Did really well in 2013
- Serrano
- Red Bell Pepper (Karma)
- Herbs
- Basil (6xsweet italian)
- Rosemary
- Parsley (24+, seriously)
- Mint
- Juliette grape tomatoes
- Extremely good producer, really disease resistant, and it tastes pretty good too.
- Slicing tomato
- Marigolds (center of garden bed, inside tomato bed)
The All-Knowing Internet says chives and tarragon are good companion plants too.
Acquired
Garden
Pests
- Figure out how to deal with stinkbugs
http://njaes.rutgers.edu/stinkbug/pesticides.asp (looks like applying "Spectracide" around the deck might work)
- Deer and birds were not a problem in 2013
Construction
Several small raised beds due to limited areas that receive enough sunlight, root infested soil (well, living in a forest does have its disadvantages), crappy soil, large drip lines, etc.
Garden CUBE Trellis
Netting: Dalen Gardeneer, 60lbs breaking strength (looks pretty typical). Installed 2013, survived season and looks fine for next year (leaving it on the trellis because saving a few bucks every N years isn't worth the pain of removing and reinstalling it).
See Clinton's weblog posts about the trellis for details on the construction process. After using the trellis for a season, update wiki or website with general design (don't want to add too much to the "I built a trellis that ended up collapsing but never wrote about that part" noise).
Materials
- 1/2" EMT Conduit for legs and low-weight supports
- 1/2" Rigid Conduit for supports for things like squash and melons
- 1" PVC (plumbing, schedule 40) Side outlet elbow junction
- Various bushings to adapt pvc junction to 3/4" and 1/2" thread
- 1/2" and 3/4" EMT Set Screw to threaded connectors
Building It
- Measure a square on the ground
- Hammer in a piece of rebar in each corner
- Put EMT over rebar, decide on a height, and cut all of them to be level.
- Build the needed elbows
- 1/2" threaded bushing for direct connection of rigid conduit
- 1/2" threaded bushing to attach 1/2" EMT set screw connector
- 3/4" threaded bushing to attach 3/4" EMT set screw connector, which is used to attach the cut end of the rigid pipe (unless you have a pipe threader, in which case why are you taking advice from amateurs). It's not a super-snug fit, but it seems close enough.
- Measure, cut, install horizontal supports
- 1/2" EMT seems fine for things like tomatoes; 20lbs of weight results in a bend that you can see if you're looking for it. Attach with two set screw connectors to elbows.
- 1/2" rigid conduit doesn't bend before the pvc on the ends starts deforming so if the trellis can handle heavy things, it looks like this is the best bet for squash/melons. Attach one end to a 1/2" threaded pvc connector in one elbow, and use a 3/4" set screw adapter on the cut end.
- Stake and tie down elbows
- Keep the frame under slight tension so that it does not sway back and forth easily.
Soil
Raleigh will sells compost and mulch at reasonable prices. Then we just need an equal amount of soil-less media. One truck load of compost was enough for two seasons.
Strata:
- 3" (overflowing top of bed) mulch
- 10" 1:1:1 peat moss:vermiculite:perlite base media, mixed 1:1 with compost
- 1" of mulch
- tilled earth
Main garden bed had a small amount of blood meal added with the bottom mulch dug in (blood meal to compensate for nitrogen loss as it composts). Also added recommended amount of bone meal to mixture about halfway down (since the plants will likely need it when their roots get about that deep).
Layout
Using Square Foot Gardening as guide for layout.
- 5'x3' raised bed
2 5'x16" beds, around a 6' tall garden trellis cube made of electrical conduit (Five 10' boards)
Main Plot
First step: allocate each square roughly so that we can visualize the garden. Unspecific order (easier to perform plant location optimization after we know how many squares of each will be grown).
Cell 3x5 is the one in the corner closest to the house / next door.
planned, not yet planted, normal text is planted.
|
1 |
2 |
3 |
4 |
5 |
1 |
garlic |
chives (currently dormant) |
bunching onions |
bunching onions |
parsley (3) |
2 |
parsley (4) |
... |
Marigolds (4) |
... |
... |
3 |
... |
... |
... |
... |
garlic |
Garden CUBE
Probably just live with only two beds, perhaps three.
Bed are ~60" long internally, plots are spaced 15". Cucumbers can probably be spaced tighter because of low weight, SFG book says one every 6", so 5" should be fine.
Cell 1 is furthest from house
|
1 |
2 |
3 |
4 |
5 |
1 |
.... |
cucumber |
cucumber |
cucumber |
... |
2 |
Early Hanover Melon |
Early Hanover Melon |
... |
... |
The third side has a rubbermaid bin with three or four grape tomatoes. Grow some grape tomatoes and at least one vine of a slicing tomato.
Containers
In Use
- Catnip (medium pot)
- Rosemary (large pot)
- Oregano (rubbermaid bin)
Available
- 3 Deep rubbermaid bins (suitable for 4 plants)
- One is attached to the trellis
- 9 12" pots (possibly ten, or eight, need to double check)
- 1 Huge pot
- 1 Large pot
- 1 Five gallon bucket
- 3 Shallow rubbermaid bins
- 1 Recycling bin
Container Media
- 5 gal Pro-Mix BX
- 1 gal screened compost
- 2 cups Plant Tone (recommended amount for 1 cu ft, close enough)
- 1/2 cup blood meal for initial fertilization
- 1/4 cup bone meal for a bit of extra phosphorous
Ideas
- Do we want to grow onions in containers?
- Can onions, garlic, or bunching onions be grown in containers with e.g. peppers?
- Green onions everywhere would be nice. Concerns include resource competition.
In the yard somewhere
Possibly just mix a bunch of herb seeds together with a bit of sand, toss in a spot near the edge of the yard, and cover with a thin layer of topsoil.
- Chamomile
- Chicory
- Anise
- Cumin
- Lavender
- Rosemary (good hedge for the front!)
