Differences between revisions 1 and 43 (spanning 42 versions)
Revision 1 as of 2012-02-26 07:07:03
Size: 2915
Editor: ClintonEbadi
Comment: gardening is painful
Revision 43 as of 2013-02-05 17:34:19
Size: 7461
Editor: ClintonEbadi
Comment: no need for a teepee, hey we can get cheap dirt
Deletions are marked like this. Additions are marked like this.
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= Timeline =

 * February 10th: need to be germinating anything like peppers growing from seed
 * March 1st: cut off window for growing basically anything from seed
 * April 1st-10th: Last frost date, in theory

The garden beds should have soil in them before mid-March (try early March), but not mulched until after the ground warms up.
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Current status is: germinating for the first time. Anything related to keeping seedlings alive (light) is completely untested, but, assuming pieces of random advice from scattered forum postings across the Internet can be trusted, might even work. In 2012, seed propagation was an experiment in failure. Major problems:

 * Attempted to propagate too many things
 * Attempted to propagate difficult things
 * Used tiny cells to start, waited too long to transplant many, killed several during transplantation/pruning.
 * Using an air duct as a reflector hood was only effective at helping to keep them warm. We really need a sheet of mylar or something instead, or nothing.

Things that did work:

 * The seed starting mixture and fertilization regime seemed adequate.
 * Water procedure (fill tray and allow starting mixture to suck it up) worked well.
 * Plastic wrap was indeed adequate for germination. Use less water this time around however.

Possible solutions:

 * Germinate fewer things (probably herbs, a few weird peppers)
 * Have the garden ready early enough to plant things like the melons directly in the beds
 * Use the medium peat/cardboard pots to start a single seed, and instead of thinning later accept that a few will not survive hardening off.

== Process ==

 0. Staring mixture: 1 part vermiculite, 1 part perlite, 1 part spaghum peat moss
    * 3 Tbsp lime (antifungal properties?) when 1 part = 1 gallon
 0. Fill peat trays 1/2-3/4 full with mixture
 0. Put one seed per pot to minimize effort at transplantation time
 0. Cover to the recommended planting depth
 0. Fill drainage tray with 3 quarts water (overfilled the first with a gallon, underfilled the second with two quarts, three seems to be enough to keep everything properly moist)
 0. Insert and mark seedling trays with business cards (variety + planting date + # of seeds/cell + expected germination date)
 0. Wrap the whole thing up in plastic wrap and wait
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 * 7 drainage trays capable of holding 5x10 cell paper/peat starter cell pots (I'm going for easy transplantation here)  * 7 drainage trays capable of holding 5x10 cell paper/peat starter cell pots (I'm going for easy transplantation here) (GT,,n,, = Germination Tray N, ST,,n,, = Seedling Tray N)
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 * [[http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100204114/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053|10inx5ft duct]] cut into 10-11" wide pieces as makeshift reflector hoods (hack! not sure if it's even worth it ...)
 * Lots of 5000K / 1500 lumen CFLs + extension cords + [[http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100170446/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053|pluggable light sockets]] (because I'm not confindent in my ability to wire things that have to be left on for 16 hours at a time without causing a fire) = 2 CFLs per tray, attached to a cheap square plug, ziptied to the copper wire supporting the reflector.

== Seeds to Acquire ==

For 2013, it's probably too late now.

Marigolds, yarrow, potatoes?
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=== Not Germinated Yet ===

 * German Chamomile (pending indoor germination)
 * Dill (pending indoor germination)
 * German Chamomile
 * Dill
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 * [[http://www.seedsavers.org/Details.aspx?itemNo=1347|Yellow of Parma Onion]]
 * [[http://www.seedsavers.org/Details.aspx?itemNo=394|Borettana Yellow Onion]]
 * [[http://www.seedsavers.org/Details.aspx?itemNo=350|Romanesco Broccoli]]
 * [[http://www.seedsavers.org/Details.aspx?itemNo=112%28OG%29|Parade Cucumber]]
 * [[http://www.seedsavers.org/Details.aspx?itemNo=46%28OG%29|Five Color Silverbeet Swiss Chard]]
 * [[http://www.seedsavers.org/Details.aspx?itemNo=607|Christmas Lima Bean]]
 * [[http://www.seedsavers.org/Details.aspx?itemNo=1024|SSE Lettuce Mixture]]
 * [[http://www.seedsavers.org/Details.aspx?itemNo=245%28OG%29|Waltham Butternut Squash]]
 * [[http://www.seedsavers.org/Details.aspx?itemNo=927|Early Hanover Melon]]
 * [[http://www.seedsavers.org/Details.aspx?itemNo=40%28OG%29|Amish Melon]]
 * [[http://www.seedsavers.org/Details.aspx?itemNo=645%28OG%29|Aurora Pepper]]
 * [[http://www.seedsavers.org/Details.aspx?itemNo=269|Anise]]
 * [[http://www.seedsavers.org/Details.aspx?itemNo=462|Cumin]]
 * [[http://www.seedsavers.org/Details.aspx?itemNo=1289|Sunflower Mixture]]
 * [[http://www.seedsavers.org/Details.aspx?itemNo=269|Spider Flower Mix]]
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=== Germinated === == Plants to Germinate ==
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==== Herbs ==== Easy:
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 * "True" Lavender
 * Sweet Basil
 * Oriental Basil
 * Flat Leaf Parsley
 * Chicory
 * Basil
 * Dill
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==== Peppers ==== = Transplants =
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 * Cayenne Pepper
 * Habanero Pepper
 * California Wonder Pepper
 * Sweet Banana Pepper
Given the effort required to germinate a lot of things, we'll probably have more success just acquiring transplants for most things.
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== Currently Germinating == == Needed ==
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Organized by the tray they are in. Details on start dates &c coming once ClintonEbadi is unlazy enough to double check the labels on the germination trays. I seed everything in increments of ten cell peat pots.

 * T,,0,,: 2x Sweet Banana Pepper, 2x Orange Habanero, 1x Cayenne Pepper
 * T,,1,,: 3x California Wonder Bell Pepper, 2x Chicory
 * T,,2,,: 3x Parsley, 3x Lavender
 * T,,3,,: 3x Sweet Basil, 2x Oriental Basil

T,,4,, is allocated to Chamomile+Dill, T,,5,, is unallocated, T,,6,, has no corresponding peat pots

== Seedlings ==

nil.
 * Bell Peppers
 * Bannana Peppers
 * Parsley
 * Rosemary
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== Pests ==

 * Figure out how to deal with stinkbugs
   * http://www.epa.gov/pesticides/controlling/stinkbugs/
   * http://njaes.rutgers.edu/stinkbug/pesticides.asp (looks like applying "Spectracide" around the deck might work)
 * Deer fence
 * Birds
   * We have a stream so puncturing things like tomatoes for water isn't ''as'' likely, but maybe we should get them a water source near the garden anyway to be nice people.
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Construction: several small raised beds due to limited areas that receive enough sunlight, root infested soil (well, living in a forest does have its disadvantages), crappy soil, large drip lines, etc. Several small raised beds due to limited areas that receive enough sunlight, root infested soil (well, living in a forest does have its disadvantages), crappy soil, large drip lines, etc.
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Cedar or Pine? Cedar may last longer, but this is being used at most 2 seasons... depends on the cost. == Soil ==
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Soil: http://www.areamulchandsoils.com/mulch%20price%20page.htm ($20.50 per yard^^2^^) Soil: --(http://www.areamulchandsoils.com/mulch%20price%20page.htm ($20.50 per yard^^2^^))-- The minimum order is way more than we need.
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Might need gravel for drainage. Raleigh will [[http://www.raleighnc.gov/services/content/SolidWaste/Articles/YWProductsForSale.html|sell us compost and mulch at reasonable prices]]. Then we just need a small amount of topsoil.

Strata:

 * 3" (overflowing top of bed) mulch
 * 10" compost/soil/perlite/vermiculite mixture
 * 1" of mulch
 * tilled earth
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 * 5'x3' raised bed
 * '''4''' 5'x16" beds, around a 6' tall garden trellis cube made of electrical conduit (Five 10' boards)
  * Two are built, two are not (but ends cut). We might want to build only one or zero more, and instead put down weed barrier inside the trellis and setup the teepee thing for squash instead.

=== Main Plot ===

First step: allocate each square roughly so that we can visualize the garden. Unspecific order (easier to perform plant location optimization after we know how many squares of each will be grown).

|| || 1 || 2 || 3 || 4 || 5 ||
|| 1 || cayenne pepper || cayenne pepper || nil || parsley (4) || marigold (5) ||
|| 2 || onion || bell pepper || cilantro (4) || onion || onion ||
|| 3 || lettuce || lettuce || onion || plum tomato || plum tomato ||

Cilantro and dill might be better off in a small bed (or buckets) of their own, allowed to self-seed throughout the summer.

=== Garden CUBE ===

Probably just live with only two beds, perhaps three.

|| || 1 || 2 || 3 || 4 || 5 ||
|| 1 || crookneck squash || crookneck squash || nil || nil || ''this row is actually spaced 18"'' ||
|| 2 || Amish melon || Amish melons || hanover melon || hanover melon || nil ||


=== Containers ===

''Take inventory of available container'' -- ClintonEbadi <<DateTime(2013-01-29T20:24:04Z)>>

Onions? More herbs?

 * Habaneros x 4
 * Bannana Peppers x 4
 * Overwintered peppers x 1
 * New bell peppers x 2
 * Aurora Peppers x ??
 * Basil x 6
 * Overwintered Rosemary x 2
 * New rosemary x 3
 * New mint x 2
 * New catnip x 1

=== In the yard somewhere ===

Possibly just mix a bunch of herb seeds together with a bit of sand, toss in a spot near the edge of the yard, and cover with a thin layer of topsoil.

 * Chamomile
 * Chicory
 * Anise
 * Cumin
 * Lavender
 * Rosemary (good hedge for the front!)

= History =

 * /GardenLog2012

----
CategoryEvergreen

Timeline

  • February 10th: need to be germinating anything like peppers growing from seed
  • March 1st: cut off window for growing basically anything from seed
  • April 1st-10th: Last frost date, in theory

The garden beds should have soil in them before mid-March (try early March), but not mulched until after the ground warms up.

Seed Propagation

In 2012, seed propagation was an experiment in failure. Major problems:

  • Attempted to propagate too many things
  • Attempted to propagate difficult things
  • Used tiny cells to start, waited too long to transplant many, killed several during transplantation/pruning.
  • Using an air duct as a reflector hood was only effective at helping to keep them warm. We really need a sheet of mylar or something instead, or nothing.

Things that did work:

  • The seed starting mixture and fertilization regime seemed adequate.
  • Water procedure (fill tray and allow starting mixture to suck it up) worked well.
  • Plastic wrap was indeed adequate for germination. Use less water this time around however.

Possible solutions:

  • Germinate fewer things (probably herbs, a few weird peppers)
  • Have the garden ready early enough to plant things like the melons directly in the beds
  • Use the medium peat/cardboard pots to start a single seed, and instead of thinning later accept that a few will not survive hardening off.

Process

  1. Staring mixture: 1 part vermiculite, 1 part perlite, 1 part spaghum peat moss
    • 3 Tbsp lime (antifungal properties?) when 1 part = 1 gallon
  2. Fill peat trays 1/2-3/4 full with mixture
  3. Put one seed per pot to minimize effort at transplantation time
  4. Cover to the recommended planting depth
  5. Fill drainage tray with 3 quarts water (overfilled the first with a gallon, underfilled the second with two quarts, three seems to be enough to keep everything properly moist)
  6. Insert and mark seedling trays with business cards (variety + planting date + # of seeds/cell + expected germination date)
  7. Wrap the whole thing up in plastic wrap and wait

Equipment

  • 7 drainage trays capable of holding 5x10 cell paper/peat starter cell pots (I'm going for easy transplantation here) (GTn = Germination Tray N, STn = Seedling Tray N)

  • Storage rack for seedlings and germination trays

Seeds to Acquire

For 2013, it's probably too late now.

Marigolds, yarrow, potatoes?

Available Seed

Plants to Germinate

Easy:

  • Basil
  • Dill

Transplants

Given the effort required to germinate a lot of things, we'll probably have more success just acquiring transplants for most things.

Needed

  • Bell Peppers
  • Bannana Peppers
  • Parsley
  • Rosemary

Garden

Pests

Construction

Several small raised beds due to limited areas that receive enough sunlight, root infested soil (well, living in a forest does have its disadvantages), crappy soil, large drip lines, etc.

Soil

Soil: http://www.areamulchandsoils.com/mulch%20price%20page.htm ($20.50 per yard2) The minimum order is way more than we need.

Raleigh will sell us compost and mulch at reasonable prices. Then we just need a small amount of topsoil.

Strata:

  • 3" (overflowing top of bed) mulch
  • 10" compost/soil/perlite/vermiculite mixture
  • 1" of mulch
  • tilled earth

Layout

Pending raised bed plans... at first glance, Square Foot Gardening looks like a reasonable framework to sketch things out.

  • 5'x3' raised bed
  • 4 5'x16" beds, around a 6' tall garden trellis cube made of electrical conduit (Five 10' boards)

    • Two are built, two are not (but ends cut). We might want to build only one or zero more, and instead put down weed barrier inside the trellis and setup the teepee thing for squash instead.

Main Plot

First step: allocate each square roughly so that we can visualize the garden. Unspecific order (easier to perform plant location optimization after we know how many squares of each will be grown).

1

2

3

4

5

1

cayenne pepper

cayenne pepper

nil

parsley (4)

marigold (5)

2

onion

bell pepper

cilantro (4)

onion

onion

3

lettuce

lettuce

onion

plum tomato

plum tomato

Cilantro and dill might be better off in a small bed (or buckets) of their own, allowed to self-seed throughout the summer.

Garden CUBE

Probably just live with only two beds, perhaps three.

1

2

3

4

5

1

crookneck squash

crookneck squash

nil

nil

this row is actually spaced 18"

2

Amish melon

Amish melons

hanover melon

hanover melon

nil

Containers

Take inventory of available container -- ClintonEbadi 2013-01-29 20:24:04

Onions? More herbs?

  • Habaneros x 4
  • Bannana Peppers x 4
  • Overwintered peppers x 1
  • New bell peppers x 2
  • Aurora Peppers x ??
  • Basil x 6
  • Overwintered Rosemary x 2
  • New rosemary x 3
  • New mint x 2
  • New catnip x 1

In the yard somewhere

Possibly just mix a bunch of herb seeds together with a bit of sand, toss in a spot near the edge of the yard, and cover with a thin layer of topsoil.

  • Chamomile
  • Chicory
  • Anise
  • Cumin
  • Lavender
  • Rosemary (good hedge for the front!)

History


CategoryEvergreen

EvergreenGarden (last edited 2014-04-01 11:39:39 by ClintonEbadi)